Never Cooked Italian?
What You'll Need
Beginning in the
kitchen, assuming you have pots and pans and a range, you probably have
everything you need. The only specifically Italian things that come to mind are
a pasta pot, which is a large (4 gallon, or 16 liter) pot for boiling pasta
(it's also excellent for making soup), a colander, and a mezzaluna, a
crescent-shaped knife with a handle on either end that makes mincing much
easier. The mezzaluna is quick, and quicker to clean up after than a blender,
and you'll wonder how you ever got along without one. It's also more precise,
allowing you to chop just as fine as you want and no more. Finally, wooden
spoons, which do not get hot and thus allow you to stir things without worrying
about burning your fingers.
Moving to the table, you'll want two sets
of glasses, one slightly larger, for water, and one smaller, for wine. This if
you want to do things in style, and if you want to go all out you'll want
specific glasses for specific types of wine. However, in most homes you'll just
get one glass and fill it with wine, water, or a mixture if that's what you
prefer. Silverware doesn't reserve any surprises, but plates do. An Italian
dinner service consists of a piatto piano, a flat plate about 9 inches
(23 cm) in diameter, and a piatto fondo, a 1 1/2-inch deep bowl of the
same diameter. As you might expect, the first course goes into the piatto fondo
(about a cup or perhaps slightly more), while the main course and vegetable go
on the piatto piano. There may be a salad plate, though there may not. There
won't be a bread plate, because Italians generally do not butter their bread.
In a restaurant you'll get a basket of sliced bread, grissini, or rolls,
whereas in a home the bread will go directly onto the tablecloth.
We now come to the
heart of the matter: What do you need to cook an Italian meal? Food,
obviously. You will want to buy meats, vegetables and other fresh ingredients
in your market, selecting what's in season and looks good -- hothouse
vegetables may look nice but they rarely have much taste, while things that
look spoiled usually are. In terms of meats and fish, in light of the dioxin
and mad cow scandals that have swept Europe over the past few years, it would
likely be a good idea to consider meat and fish that are raised organically,
using natural feeds (no animal-based meal for herbivores), and without recourse
to hormones or drugs.
This takes care of the day-to-day shopping but
ignores the long term things you can stock up on.
Poking around in my
kitchen, I have found:
|
In Cupboards |
In the Fridge |
|---|---|
|
Extravirgin olive oil for salads and drizzling over hearty vegetable soups |
Garlic -- useful though not overused in most of Italy |
|
Cheap olive oil for cooking |
Red onions -- they're not as bitter as the white ones can be |
|
Corn oil for frying |
Fresh parsley -- this is the one herb I associate with Italian cooking |
|
Celery -- minced, with onion, carrot and parsley (small amounts of each), this is considered an herb and is the basis for many central and north Italian dishes. |
|
|
Tiny bits of pasta for broth |
Carrots |
|
Small elbows pasta (1/4 inch long) for thick vegetable soups |
A wedge of Parmigiano for grating or eating with a pear |
|
Short pasta such as penne, for thick sauces |
Lemons |
|
Flat pasta such as tagliatelle (fettuccine) or farfalle for cream sauces |
Unsalted butter |
|
Store-bought gnocchi for when we're rushed |
|
|
Spaghettini for liquid sauces (e.g. aglio e olio or clam sauce) |
Eggs |
|
Rice: Arborio and Vialone Nano for risotti, basmati because it smells nice and is delightful with butter and grated cheese |
Milk |
|
Corn meal, fairly fine grind -- for polenta |
Salted capers -- they don't have to be kept cold but we do |
|
Anchovies -- an open jar |
|
|
Sugar |
Pecorino toscano -- sheep's milk cheese, for dessert |
|
Marine salt (similar in flavor to kosher salt. Fine for use at table and coarse for salting pasta water |
Pecorino romano -- a mild version, for grating |
|
Bread crumbs |
Ricotta salata -- salted ricotta, necessary for some pasta sauces (e.g. orecchiette ai broccoli). |
|
Dried beans -- for soups, fagioli all'uccelletto, tuna with beans and more. We have both cannellini and borlotti (use cranberry beans for the latter if you're in the US). We also have green lentils |
Mozzarella -- perfect with tomatoes and basil in summer, and nice to have in winter |
|
Dried porcini -- excellent for risotto and handy for flavoring stews |
Tomato paste (an open tube) handy for thickening sauces, or adding a touch of tomato flavor |
|
Canned tomatoes and a bottle of tomato puree (handy for making sauces, especially the latter) |
Bullion cubes (an acceptable broth substitute that can be used instead of salt too) |
|
Nutmeg pods and a small grater -- much more flavorful than preground |
Fresh rosemary and sage (we don't care much for dried) |
|
Cinnamon sticks -- useful in some desserts |
A chunk of unsoaked baccalà |
|
Dried red peppers |
Red & green peppercorns packed in vinegar (nice in sauces, especially for steak) |
|
Black peppercorns & grinder |
Mayonnaise (real) -- good in some sauces, and with boiled meats of fish. |
|
Ground espresso coffee (bought from a roaster around the corner, 1/4 pound at a time) |
Plain brined black olives from the deli counter. |
|
White wine |
|
|
Almonds |
Lambrusco (it's nice chilled) |
|
Pinoli |
Asti and Brachetto, sweet sparkling wines to go with creamy desserts |
|
Chestnut flour, when it's in season |
Dry Champagne that's been there for a while |
|
Sottoli -- vegetables packed in oil, as an antipasto |
|
|
Mix for insalata di riso (rice salad; in summer) -- for when we're rushed |
|
|
Vanilla |
|
|
Chemical yeast in 15 gram (2/3 ounce) packets -- the Italian equivalent of baking powder |
|
|
Dried herbs and spices -- an assortment, including oregano, nipitella (a type of thyme), coriander (whole), cumin, curry powder, and juniper berries |
|
|
Farro, an ancient grain, for soups & salads |
And on the
windowsill, in summer, a basil plant.
Wondering what to do with all
this stuff? Elisabetta (my wife) buys what catches her eye, opens cupboards and
fridge, and improvises. Things are never quite the same from one time to the
next, and we occasionally wish she had written down what she did. I tend to
follow cookbooks the first time around and go from memory from about the third,
unless it's a cake.
You'll find hundreds of recipes suitable for all
occasions and climatic conditions, on site.
If you'd like to know
more about Italian food in general, wines, customs, and so on, I frequently touch on these things in my newsletter.
Got more
sites / recipes to suggest? Post on the Forum!
Buon Appetito!
Kyle Phillips
Backtracking:
How to organize an Italian meal.
Photo mine.

